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Brands & error codes

Salt cell and chlorinator codes

A salt system only makes chlorine when it has flow, the right salt level, warm enough water and a clean cell. Its lights tell you which one is missing.

Last updated · Reviewed by the Pool Helpline tech team

Hayward AquaRite

LightWhat it means
Generating (flashing)Water is too hot or too cold to operate. AquaRite stops generating below 50°F.
No FlowThe flow switch sees no flow and the AquaRite stopped making chlorine. Flashing is a 15 to 60 second delay while it checks.
Check Salt (flashing)Salt is low (below 2700 ppm), and it's generating at low efficiency.
Check Salt (steady)Salt is too low and the AquaRite has shut down.
High SaltSalt is too high and the AquaRite has shut down.
Inspect Cell (flashing)Cell efficiency is reduced or it's time for a scheduled inspection (about every 500 hours). Inspect, clean if needed, then hold the diagnostic button for 3 seconds.
Inspect Cell (steady)Cell efficiency is greatly reduced and it stopped making chlorine. Inspect, clean, or replace if needed.

Hayward gives an ideal salt range of 2700 to 3400 ppm, with 3200 ppm optimal, and advises having your salt professionally checked before adding a lot.

Pentair IntelliChlor

LightWhat it means
Salt greenGood salt: 2800 to 4500 ppm.
Salt green flashingSalt above 4500 ppm, which raises the risk of corrosion.
Salt red (low)Below 2800 ppm. Still producing, at reduced efficiency. Add salt.
Salt red (very low)Below 2600 ppm. No chlorine until salt is added.
Cell green flashingNeeds inspection; the blades may have calcium buildup. Not producing chlorine.
Flow redNot enough water flow through the cell; no chlorine is being produced.
Cold Water redStandby because the water is below 52°F. Resumes when it warms up.

Pentair says to run the pump at least 24 hours after adding salt before trusting a salt reading.

Cleaning a cell safely

Power off first. Turn the pump (and heater) off and switch off the breaker before you open the pump lid, the filter or any equipment panel. Wiring, breakers, GFCIs and pool lights are jobs for a licensed electrician. Never go in the water if you suspect an electrical problem.

Hayward says to turn off power to the chlorinator before removing the cell, look for scale or debris on the plates, and try a high-pressure hose first. If you need to acid wash, follow the manufacturer's steps exactly, wear gloves and eye protection, and always add acid to water, never water to acid. Scale buildup usually means calcium or water balance needs attention.

When it's a tech job

If Inspect Cell stays on after a good cleaning and the salt is right, Hayward says the cell may be worn out. Flow lights with the pump running, or a dead control board, need a closer look. A tech on video can check the lights, your test results and the cell label and tell you whether it's the cell, the flow switch or the board.

Common questions

What does Inspect Cell mean on a Hayward AquaRite?

Flashing means cell efficiency is reduced or a scheduled inspection is due (about every 500 hours). Inspect and clean the cell if needed, then hold the diagnostic button for 3 seconds to reset. Steady means efficiency is greatly reduced and it stopped making chlorine; clean or replace the cell.

What salt level should my pool be?

It depends on your system. Hayward's AquaRite manual gives 2700 to 3400 ppm with 3200 optimal. Pentair's IntelliChlor shows good salt between 2800 and 4500 ppm. Follow your chlorinator's manual.

Why is my salt cell not producing chlorine?

The usual reasons are no flow, low or very low salt, high salt, a dirty or worn cell, or water too cold for the cell to run. The chlorinator's lights tell you which.

Related guides

Sources

Brand names belong to their owners. Pool Helpline isn't affiliated with or endorsed by any manufacturer. Steps and codes vary by model and year, so always check your own owner's manual.

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